Monthly Archives: September 2007

I completely forgot about the Interview

But such are the facts: David Freund interviewed me at the COMS 2007 about our microscopes for Azonano.com.  Of course, I think I sound like a nasally arrogant Amurrican, what with a cold on the way, and there are a number of things I would have said differently or not at all, but now you can hear thduggie trying to think on his feet.  It starts at about eleven an a half minutes into the 17MB file, so if you’re on dial-up, ignore it.  If the link doesn’t work, try going to the Azonano podcasts, and looking for the September 17, 2007 podcast.

There.  Four down, eleven to go on my quest for my own fifteen minutes… 😉

Round the world, part IV: jiggety-jig

I didn’t have too hard a time getting up on Sunday; I don’t know if that was despite or because of my jet lag. I showered and packed in as much silence as I could, then hooked up my computer to the orphaned LAN cable dangling from the wireless router to check if there were e-mails I needed to read. At that moment, the doorbell rang. My friend Seema was a bit early picking me up, so I asked her in. It feels a little weird to ask someone into someone else’s house, but I wasn’t going to let her wait on the porch until I finished reading my e-mails.

Mom had written, fortunately. She’d left a message on Heather’s cell phone the night before that said: “Hi Heather, this is Margee Stücklin, Stephan’s Mom. Please tell Stephan that -” and there suddenly the signal went choppy and we couldn’t understand a word. But being Mom, she also wrote the same thing: she was coming to pick me up at the airport. Knowing that felt good.

I had to wake up Heather, not only to say goodbye, but also because my big suitcase with the microscope stood in her bedroom. With it out, we were almost ready to load; I had to put my computer away and stuff some other things into bags, which gave Seema and Heather some time to chat.

Seema and I drove (what else) to Beverly Hills, to the mosaic church that a friend of Seema’s had recommended. It turned out to be geared to young college students, primarily, with loud, repetitive music and an inspirational rather than an expository message. When it was over I still felt like something had been left out.

We drove on to Santa Monica, where we had Mexican food on Third Street promenade, and then made our way to the beach and the pier.  We ambled along the pier, past the showmen and tourist traps, and stood watching the waves crash against the pylons for a while until we realized that if I was to make my flight and we wanted an ice cream we had to hurry up.  We ended up settling for tea instead, and took it to the car.  The parking garage made me chuckle by having an Austrian-made Skidata access control system, but instead of installing machines where customers would insert their ticket and pay, reducing the labor intensity of running the garage, you still had to hand it to a lady who stuck it in a machine and charged you three dollars.

I got to the airport well on time, manhandled my luggage out of the trunk, and said goodbye.  At the check-in counter the guy told me that this time was okay, but to make sure in the future that my suitcases didn’t weigh more than 23 kilograms.  I don’t get it.  I got all the way to the US on the pretext that because I was heading there my luggage was okay, and now in the US they’re telling me it isn’t?  Of course I couldn’t just leave my baggage there at check-in, but had to lug it around to the TSA queue for security screening.  Now I’d understand this extra work if they detained me until the luggage was screened and deemed safe, but they just took my suitcase and sent me off.  If that’s their modus operandi, why can’t they just take my suitcase at check-in and send me off, and screen my stuff somewhere else?  Is the extra annoyance only to make passengers quite aware of the extra screening, so that perhaps they’d feel safe?

Well, that doesn’t work, because even though, in another example of Homeland Security zeal, they made me remove my camera from my camera bag, they still didn’t detect my suntan lotion.  Losers.  And while security checked my passport and boarding pass, I never passed customs on the way out.  I’d immigrated into the US with my US passport, but the guy at check-in had used my Swiss passport to check me in.  Depending on how connected the systems are, they’ll be wondering how they got a Swiss guy leaving who never entered in the first place.

I bought a vitamin water and a lemon-flavored Perrier (a poor substitute for the regular stuff) to go with the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups Seema had given me, which after the long wait in the car had gone quite liquid.  With that much to drink, you won’t be surprised I used the bathrooms, but if you know the state of those bathrooms you may be surprised to know I didn’t just hold it until the plane left.  It may be an international airport, but the bathrooms are in worse shape than those of a provincial baseball stadium after the seventh inning.

Rarely have I slept so poorly on a flight.  After all, it took off at 12:40 p.m. Australian time.  I may have caught an hour or two of sleep, no more, watching Shrek 3 and Next and other movies and shows I didn’t really want to watch instead.  The plane got in early, and unlike all other airports I fly to I didn’t have this feeling of “What is this place and why am I here?”  This was where I belong.  It’s strange that even four weeks elsewhere cannot dispel that gut feeling.

But I wasn’t unaffected.  Driving from my parents’ house to my apartment in their car, I hit the windshield wipers a few times to indicate turns.

Round the world, part III: more L.A. driving

Saturday morning Heather and I went for a breakfast at Mimi’s café, where she had a low-carb breakfast and a muffin and I had a muffin, and egg, and tea. The hot tea came with a selection of tea bags and a number of plastic pouches with honey, which after the experience on Friday immediately made me snicker uncontrollably as I contemplated a honey squishy. After our langorous meal we drove out west again. We were to meet up with my friend Mizuho, whom I know from the Japanese church I attend when in the Tokyo area, and who had just moved to L.A. to start an exchange year at UCLA.

What neither Heather nor I had bothered to think about was how to get to UCLA, so we took 10 to Santa Monica, where it turned into US 1 going north along the shore. Obviously we were a bit too far west at that point, so we turned up a random road (Temescal Canyon road) and turned right on Sunset boulevard. At the next gas station we asked for directions for UCLA. The attendant moseyed on over to his supervisor, conferred, and returned to tell us to drive on Sunset for a while and then to turn left into Westwood boulevard, before retiring to sit in the shade again. We drove off, intent on following his directions and calling Mizuho again when we got there.

Alas, directions need to be correct in order to be followed. His weren’t. We passed a Westwood Plaza on our right and continued on in blind faith, when it later turned out that would have been an entrance to UCLA. Westwood boulevard doesn’t even intersect Sunset. Our drive continued on through all the ostentatiousness of Beverly Hills and on into West Hollywood, where Mizuho’s friend Yoshiko called and we decided we’d gone well beyond where we’d wanted to. We stopped at another gas station and this time I went ahead and bought a map (and more fizzy water).

Oh, how the world becomes a better place once you have a map. Not only do you know where to go and how to get there, but you can figure out a shortcut and amuse yourself by trying to figure out where you’ve come from. The only little difficulty we had getting to the Japanese center on Sawtelle was that we passed it at first and had to circle around the block, avoid the valet parking, and find a space in the subterranean lot across the street. Yoshiko and Mizuho soon arrived and Yoshiko, whom I’d last met during my internship at Nippon Steel Corporation six years ago, obviously knew the place and guided us to a Vietnamese restaurant with a Japanese waitress. Although among each other we mostly spoke English, I consistently spoke Japanese to the waitress just for the sheer oddness of it.

After lunch we crossed over to the market because Mizuho craved Japanese reading and had spied the Japanese bookstore. Heather bought cute stationery items, Mizuho bought two books, and the rest of us meandered through the shop commenting and chatting. I talked Mizuho into buying Endo’s “The Samurai” and I hope she ends up liking it as much as I did. After rifling through the CD and DVD section of the store we ambled on to the coffee shop where they were out of Assam and the only other unscented choice was English Breakfast; Yoshiko and Mizuho both had tapioca bobbles in their drink and couldn’t understand why Heather and I saw no redeeming attributes in sucking chewy spheres up with one’s tea.

We bade each other farewell and Heather and I drove back. On the way I tried to use my credit card to pump gas, but the pump station wanted me to enter a five-digit ZIP code. I tried 04053, which resulted in an error and a message that I had to go see the clerk. He took my card, authorized the pump, and kept the card while we pumped. Am I the only one who thinks it’s odd to require a ZIP code when the card has a PIN code, the only one who thinks it’s provincial to insist that every country have a five-digit ZIP code?

We stopped at a grocery store for something Heather needed to get for her friend Jessica, and I bought orange juice and a can of Easy Cheese (made with real cheese). At the checkout counter the girl voiced her surprise that the half-gallon of OJ cost less than the little can o’ cheese. I told her I wanted the can to take home, because we don’t have anything like that in Switzerland. “You’re from Switzerland?” she asked. “That’s so … interesting!” At a loss for words to craft an intelligent response that wouldn’t hurt the feelings of the sweet-tempered cashier, I paid up and took off.

Heather and I drove to Jessica’s house, where we not only got to hang out with Jessica in a room that contained two sofas, a 40-inch TV, and two loudspeakers nearly as tall as Jessica herself, but got to meet five of her cousins ranging from age two to age twelve. The kids seemed most excited that the two-year-old could already use words I’d rather not repeat on my blog. He also kept wanting to swing a RCA jack cable that the kids used as a jumprope, and managed to give Heather a good smack in the face early on. I hope I won’t be around when he gets bigger.

We dropped off our stuff at Heather’s and headed into town, where we met a number of Heather’s and Kurt’s friends at the Royal Falconer. I got to talk to a girl named Laura who is also a dental hygienist from Loma Linda University, like Heather. They seem to be spawning somewhere. Aside from the folks that we were supposed to meet up with, half the bar was apparently populated by people they used to go to school with and hadn’t seen in ages, even though the bar was quiet due to the car show in San Bernardino. We had a cheese lavosh and far too many drinks, enough that I had to get up in the middle of a jetlagged night for a glass of OJ and one of water. By that time I was wide awake and ended up snapping a few shots of the dawn before crawling back under the covers.

Round the world part II: Weekend in L.A.

Heather actually lives in Redlands, not L.A., which for her is a short drive.  For me, it’s halfway across my native country.  We drove east and finally stopped at the Loma Linda Baker’s for hamburgers and a bathroom stop.  I sat down on the toilet seat with a loud crack, which I put down to not sitting down very gently and perhaps a missing rubber damping element, until I felt the wetness on my thighs.  Fortunately, Julie had lent me Captain Underpants two or three years ago, so I immediately knew what had happened: I had become a victim of a squishy!  A squishy is something I find exquisitely funny to think about but would never actually perpetrate on anyone.  It’s done by folding one of those plastic condiment bags from fast food joints double and placing it between the toilet seat and the bowl rim.  Sit on it and CRACK the squishy squishes out your condiment of choice at high speeds in apparently a random direction, because although the squishy in Captain Underpants was a ketchup squishy aimed to soil the victim’s underpants, the hot sauce squishy in my case shot its load inward and left my clothing unsullied.  Maybe whoever planted it had mercy on my clothes, or maybe they were clueless about how to set it up (and I don’t imagine they did a lot of trial runs on themselves), or maybe they wanted it to squirt inward onto naked skin, because hot sauce might sting.  (It does, slightly.)  I was glad that with enough toilet paper the mess was quickly history.  I also thought it was sort of cool to have experienced a squishy.

We dumped my stuff (this is no longer referring to the toilet) at Heather’s apartment and took off to pick up her boyfriend Kurt and drive to the Dodgers game.  We got there a bit late due to an initial mix-up between the Dodgers and the Angels, but what does that matter in baseball anyway.  Tommy Lasorda was turning 80 and everyone got a Tommy Lasorda Bobblehead – I passed mine straight on to the guy who’d organised the tickets.  The Dodgers won and I got to see my first live home run.  Thank you, Nomar.  I also got to miss one while standing in line at the concession stand, where I spotted a sign inviting people to ask for the customer relations feedback form.  I did, and confused the cashier, who had to ask for backup just to understand my request, which backup then had to go root around in boxes in the back somewhere and finally came out with a feedback form and two extras (for the next nutcases) just as we were about to take off with our food and drinks.  I also walked over to the lady who was offering free Dodgers shirts for people who applied for a credit card, but unlike the Discovery Card guy in Durham this lady had no sympathy with my plight of not being eligible for the credit card and I scored no shirt.

The Dodgers ended up winning by 7:4, and we stayed the whole game, even though the fifth inning had decided it all.  After walking back across the humongous parking lot we drove home – again at least 90 minutes, but I think I can’t complain because just as on the ride back from the airport I kept nodding off.  I fell asleep instantly on Heather’s couch.

Round the world, part I

Friday, September 14, 9:08 a.m.
weight unknown (v.g.), calorie intake unknown (v.g.), thigh circumference unknown (v.g.), cigarettes 0 (v.v.g.), alcohol units unknown (but >0, hence only g.), predictable plot twists 2
Melbourne

I boarded the Skybus late because stuffing my stuff in my suitcases took longer than intended and apologized to the driver.  I don’t think it would have changed which bus we boarded at the Southern Cross Station terminal, but I still felt embarrassed.  At the airport, I checked in, proceeded with no delay through customs, and went to claim back the GST from my opal purchase.  The girl working the TRS booth started peeling the cover off my passport, which nobody had done so far at any customs station, then, when she realized it wasn’t easy, handed it to me and asked me to remove the cover.  Confused by the request and annoyed at the prospect of having to stuff the passport back in, I asked: “Why would you need that?”  She took the passport back.  “Oh, right, I don’t.  I’m used to being over there,” she said, and pointed to the customs booths.  She went to work on the computer, and I was left to reflect on my question and my tone.  “I’m sorry if I was rude before,” I finally said, belated and still not fully admitting guilt.  “No worries.”
After getting my documents and passing through the security check two officers pulled me aside for a random check to pat me down and swipe a detector for explosives residue on me and in my carry-ons.  I’m quite sure the TRS girl had nothing to do with that.  I passed the search and continued on to the gates, all located in a circular hall with stores in the nexus.  I bought a lemonade and a rocky road at the only coffee shop and sat down to read.  The book I held in my hand was “Bridget Jones’s Diary,” but the real reason for reading lay in having registered “Prey” at Bookcrossing before and indicated this coffee shop as the drop-off point.  I thought it was quite clever to read another book and placing “Prey” in full view on the table, because that way I could pack my things and everyone would see that I was packing a book and hopefully infer that “Prey” wasn’t mine.  It worked, but I think the subterfuge was wasted on the loud Chinese around me who clearly had other things in mind than hollering after me that I’d forgotten my book.

The plane was a bit late boarding and then even later leaving.  A Qantas flight to Auckland on to L.A. was delayed by about two and a half hours because it was waiting for a missing part from Sydney, and the passengers bound for Santiago de Chile got reshuffled to our flight in order to be able to make the connection to Chile in Auckland.  I fell asleep in the waiting plane, only to wake up to the sound of the purser’s voice announcing that boarding was complete.

Friday, September 14, 1:00 p.m.
Runway, Melbourne Tullamarine

We took off into a patchy sky and circled over the plains west of Melbourne.  Through one opening in the clouds I saw an area with a surprising number of O shapes, possibly horse-racing tracks or something similar.  It looked like a giant piece of retro appliqué with earth tones and elbow patches arranged at ninety-degree angles to each other.  We flew right over the CBD, so I saw nothing of it.  After that came the ocean, and I turned to the entertainment program and watched “Surf’s Up,” which I enjoyed as a fun divertissement, noting in the process that Zooey Deschanel has a lovely speaking voice.

Flying into Auckland just after sunset the colors turned magical: soft hues of steel blue with orange highlights in the clouds, intense aquamarine and turquoise with sandy swirls in the water, and rich green with darker woods across the landscape.  The guy next to me caught sight of my Hawthorn scarf as we got ready to deplane, and said that had he known I was a member we could have spent all flight talking.  Instead of voicing my gratitude for the way things had turned out, I quickly admitted to being a rookie member and a fake one at that, but I think the scarf alone and the reminder of the great game the previous weekend were enough to cheer up this guy who had clearly not enjoyed the delay we’d had.  (Note: Hawthorn lost this weekend against the Kangaroos and is unfortunately out of the competition.  Now I have a beef with roos.)
Friday, September 14, 6:45 p.m.
Auckland International Airport
Auckland airport once again seemed convoluted for so small an airport.  We passed security first thing after leaving the plane – even those carrying on to SFO on the same plane – and then walked round a corner up a flight of stairs into the main departure hall.  I passed the chapel on my way to the bathroom, turned in, and found a pulpit with a Bible on it open to 2 Kings or something similarly exciting and approachable.  To the side, a compass sat fixed to a wooden pillar, with an outlined T above the needle, the crossbar facing east-west and the upright pointing north.  Below, on the railing, a small plaque with an arrow pointed to Al Kaaba.  Above, in the main hall, I ordered sparkling water and received Coke without the syrup.  I hurried up with drinking because the display proclaimed 10 minutes until boarding for my flight, although even so apparently the gate was yet unknown.  Soon it switched to proclaiming five minutes until boarding, a number it stuck to for a quarter of an hour.  When Gate 8 appeared on the board I walked over toward the gates, where two officials sat behind a trestle table in front of three sheets of paper taped to the wall.  Two papers seemed semi-permanent and indicated the way to the gate; the third looked more improvised and more ruffled and read “LAX Gate 8” in two-tone highlighter.  After the airline employee checked my ticket, two officials again asked me to step aside for a random search.  I passed again, amidst quips about being used to it because of the search in Melbourne.  I must have been the safest passenger on board that plane.

I read more Bridget Jones and wondered if just as Jones is annoying to me because of her scattered flightiness, I am annoying to other people because I curb and hedge my enthusiasm.  Somehow my thoughts meandered off and ran to being on the beach and needing suntan lotion, and I suddenly realized my suntan lotion was still in my camera bag.  60ml of liquid smuggled on board just like that!

I found it harder to sleep on this flight.  Air New Zealand served lamb (darn good for airplane food) and after a few hiccups provided a decent entertainment selection.  I watched “The World’s Fastest Indian,” a delightful quirky story that makes a man want to build his own motorcycle, “Ocean’s 13,” with a plot of such basic simplicity and such byzantine contortions that I’m not sure I followed it, and an episode of Top Gear.  I finally fell asleep, only to be woken at breakfast by the flight attendant moving my seat back into the upright position.
Friday, September 14, 1:35 p.m.
LAX airport

We land.  Taxiing takes a long time, as does waiting for baggage, which shows up on belt 6 instead of 5 and gets taken off the belt by an eager official before it makes the round back to where I stand.  My smaller suitcase has sustained damage, par for the course for flights to the US.  The walk from the baggage claim to the exit is short, the arrival room looks like a proviso with the ATM standing in the section that’s inaccessible once you’re out of the double doors.  I wait, armed with not a single dollar, and a few minutes later Heather arrives to pick me up.

Jetlag weariness keeps me from relating the rest of the weekend now.

The Eve of the Flight (reprise)

I’m once again procrastinating instead of either packing stuff or going to bed so I can get up early and pack stuff.  Mind you, the microscope’s packed, and everything else should go quickly – crumple and stuff. 

I’ve mostly worked these last days, as business trips tend to work out, and that stuff is either boring or confidential or both, though why boring stuff is confidential beats me.  It’s like saying “I’m sorry, but I can’t tell you about yesterday’s meeting of the Hello Kitty Toothbrush Lovers of Wollongong because it’s confidential.” 

I did get a short window of free time yesterday afternoon, which I used to go shopping a bit, for postcards, souvenirs, and books.  I even stopped in the City Hatters’ store, and nearly drooled over the cool hats, but until I figure out a way to transport a $100 Panama hat without packing it in a suitcase or chucking it in the overhead compartment I’m not buying one overseas. 

Books I did buy, so as to be ready when I finish Bridget Jones’s Diary.  I can’t believe how insecure and incompetent and prone to dumb decisions poor Bridget is.  I have even more trouble understanding why the book has resonated so strongly with so many women.  Does that mean they identify?  If so, why am I attracted to women? 

Anyway, when buying books I also asked the clerk for her recommendations on Australian authors, and ended up choosing a book by David Malouf.  After I’d paid, she asked me if I mainly read fiction, or if I also enjoyed non-fiction.  “Fiction,” I answered.  “Life is enough non-fiction.”  It made her laugh and she wished me a good escape, but looking back I think that answer slipped out because I liked its cleverness, not because I considered its truthfulness.  I do enjoy non-fiction, and I enjoy life. 

I walked back through some side alleys and found the difference between the cute ones that had been done up and the neglected ones lined by six-storey brick walls depressing.  Melbourne could be such a charmer of a city if those alleys had some life to them!  Back home laundry lay waiting for me.  Once again, I’d given the laundry service two identical pairs of toe socks and they’d come back with the two right feet together and the two left feet together.  It might not sound too bad, but if it’s early morning and your sock won’t fit it’s a bit of a nuisance. 

For dinner Thursday we went to an English pub called The Elephant and the Wheelbarrow.  The name drew me in.  True to form, hearty dishes and hearty beer prevailed.  I enjoyed a Steak and Ale Stew with a Newcastle Brown (smooth, tasty) and afterward a Toohey’s Old (roasted flavor and a little more edgy).  It ended up being too much, and I still felt heavy the next morning. 

Today Friday I had a Netmeeting conference with a slow video connection and a jumble of whiteboard sharing and desktop sharing.  It was my first such experience and reminded me of the power of being there and showing real stuff. 

For dinner I was again invited at Tim and Vivienne’s.  It’s such a delight to be with them and their girls.  They’ve really made my trip to Melbourne.  The Great Ocean Road pales in comparison to two darling little girls and two good friends.  Those of you who know them: They say hi, and they miss you. 

 

Installation and a banquet

I caught up on some e-mailing this morning and random busywork.  After a lunch of Seven-Eleven-bought English muffins and peanut butter I met with my business partner and we went out to Monash University to install a microscope for our new customer.  A screw had come loose in the unit, which is very unusual, but we found and repaired it easily. 

After that we flew through installation and setup and got the first measurements underway.  Our customer and his assistants were very systematical and good about asking relevant questions, so except for my still slightly sore throat I had a good time at the installation. 

For dinner, I got invited to the Annual Church Banquet of the Faith! Christian Church Dandenong North.  It’s not really too complicated to explain why, but I don’t want to explain it here.  Anyway, it was interesting to see how an Australian 2000-member church holds its Annual General Meeting.  I’m used to Swiss AGMs according to Swiss law, which does change a few things. 

 

Sunday

I went to church with Tim and Viv and their family this morning and found an atypically informal setting – not quite a “beanbag church,” but one with sofas along the walls and two crescent arrangements of chairs.  This irregular and spacious arrangement meant that a person could move during the service without distracting the others – going to the bathroom, getting a drink (such as I did when a cough wouldn’t stop), or, for children, walking to or from parents.  The children had a play area, but not all played there.  Several sat through the sermon. 

They had no formal way of welcoming newcomers, who I suppose would be rare in a local church in the suburbs.  They also had no formal way of collecting the offering, except for pointing out that there was a tin box somewhere.  Now usually I believe a bit of formality goes a long way toward saying you care, but here it felt different.  They cared enough not to focus on mere perfection – the praise songs weren’t perfect shows and unlike many other places I’ve been I never got the impression anyone of them was performing.  Again, I run the risk of contradicting my usual soapbox statements in favor of the pursuit of excellence in a church service, and it’s hard to describe what it is that felt different.  Perhaps it was that the informality wasn’t forced, but a natural common denominator, down to the open floor for questions and comments on the sermon.  That I liked – and I think it worked primarily because (a) the congregation is used to it and (b) the speaker is physically close to the congregation. 

The speaker highlighted passion for God and a relationship with God as central, and once again I felt a bit alienated.  Passion, I tend to think, is not my forte.  “Intense, driving, or overmastering feeling or conviction” – not me.  I tend to associate passion with loud, agitated, irrational behavior, things I try to avoid because I don’t find them helpful.  I’m less emotive than most, too, so I feel left out by this insistence on passion.  I’d prefer zeal – without the fanaticism often inferred.  I’d prefer fervor – but just a little toned down. 

But maybe I need not feel so left out at all.  Maybe the root of passion, the Latin word for suffering, helps me out here.  I suffer when people laugh at Christian belief, when people dismiss it as outmoded and disproven, when people believe and spread rumors and half-truths and urban legends about it.  I suffer when people don’t care about getting it right, when they take poor decisions.  I may not get loud or agitated – I may often not react at all, stunned by the baldfaced nature of whatever statement was made – but if we must wear a badge of passion to be a rightful part of the righteous flock, then I can only claim it as a silent sufferer.  I hope that counts.  I want it to. 

Anyway, after church we went to St. Kilda for fish and chips and the girls got to play in the sand and loved it.  Tim and Viv are clearly my Cafe Credo down here. 

I walked back from their apartment and got a bit turned around after the Fitzroy gardens, but the CBD is hard to miss, and the lights of the Princess theatre serve as a great beacon for Little Bourke Street, where my hotel stands.  The bonus of getting off track was getting to see another cathedral in Melbourne.  Back at the hotel I copied my photos to the computer in order to finally post them below – starting with South Korea. 

But before I post them, I want to provide you with a link to AFL club songs.  These get blared from the speakers before the game and the winner’s tune gets blared again umpteen times after the game.  There’s also a brief history of AFL club songs on a related site. 

Jokduri-bong

Jokduri-bong in Bukhansan National Park, my hiking destination. 

The way up.

This guy had an easier time getting up. 

Bukhansan National Park

A view of the Bukhansan National Park. 

Ignore the shirt - this picture was taken by a guy standing about two meters higher than me and gives a good idea of the grade.   

Seoul from Bukhansan National Park

Seoul from the north. 

Part of my route down.  That rock is slippery even when dry. 

Jokduri-bong

That’s where I stood not long ago: Jokduri-bong from the rear side. 

I don’t care what the joint looks like: if it serves cold drinks, I’ve having some. 

Seoul Museum of Chicken Art

Some fowl from the Seoul Museum of Chicken Art. 

Seoul Museum of Chicken Art

More wooden fowl. 

They’ve found out the best way of proclaiming that they know about the mistake and that it’s not really that important. 

A woodworker at Insadong, the Seoul shopping street (for tourists). 

Insadong

Typical Insadong confusion. 

Seoul Tower

The Seoul Tower through my hotel window after a shower. 

Melbourne CBD from St. Albert Park Lake

Melbourne’s CBD across St. Albert’s Park Lake. 

Black swan and cygnet

Mother and child on the lake. 

Melbourne CBD

The guy has an interesting shirt, too, but I doubt it can be read at this resolution. 

Miffy turns to Snuffy

If you bend the ears like this, she looks like Snuffy!

Great Ocean Road

One of the first views of the Great Ocean Road. 

Wye River beach, Great Ocean Road

The beach at Wye River. 

Australian Road sign - Drive on Left

These signs stand at the exit of all parking areas. 

Gibson Steps

A sense of scale from the top of Gibson Steps.  Those are human footsteps below. 

Gibson Steps Great Ocean Road

Looking westward at the bottom of Gibson Steps. 

Twelve Apostles Great Ocean Road

Looking at the same rocks from the Twelve Apostles. 

Twelve Apostles coastline from Loch Ard Gorge

Looking back east from Loch Ard Gorge toward the Twelve Apostles. 

Big huge series of big huge cliffs Great Ocean Road

Another shot that gives an idea of Australian scale. 

Twelve Apostles at dusk Great Ocean Road

The Twelve Apostles after sunset. 

Twelve Apostles at gloaming Great Ocean Road

The Twelve Apostles, again. 

Twelve Apostles blue hour looking east Great Ocean Road

Looking eastward again. 

Great Ocean Road coastline in the mist

Looking a little farther east, into the mist. 

Twelve Apostles

A close-up westward. 

Twelve Apostles in the evening glow

Yet closer up. 

Another sweetie.  Three teeth make a gorgeous smile when you’re really young (or really old). 

In the US, it would say “WRONG WAY.”  You decide which is worse…

 

Birdwatch

Yesterday, I got up and called Thrifty to rent a car.  The girl on the phone told me that all their cars were at the APEC in Sydney.  I was a bit unsettled.  What if I couldn’t find a car to rent? 

I called Budget next and my fears evaporated.  They had a Hyundai Getz for me.  A lemon yellow Hyundai Getz.  I opted for the extra insurance because I had never driven a right-hand drive and on top of that, Melbourne has this weird way of having cars on a street with a tram line turn right by waiting on the far left corner for the light to turn red.  Better watch that a few times before you try it. 

I drove out of the parking lot and switched on the wipers to indicate I wished to turn right.  Everything is wrong on these cars.  When I got in, I’d grope for the belt on the left.  I’d shift from fourth into third instead of fifth because that motion of pushing the stick away is so ingrained.  I leaned away from the door because I felt so close to the right side. 

Slowly, these habits vanished, as did my confusion with signage.  Driving through the CBD proved a great way to make sure I got used to the chirality of the car quickly, but even so, I took two wrong turns before finally getting on the Princes Highway toward Geelong (pronounce that Juh-LONG).  In Geelong I stopped at the information center to get some information on the Great Ocean Road.  I decided to drive the windy road on the way there and take the inland route home.  The lady at the info center explained that driving back on the coastal stretch would mean the view was behind me, but I’m still not sure what she means with that. 

I drove the US 1 down the California coast last year and can compare between the two, as far as that is possible.  I prefer the California scenery but the Australian road quality.  Despite having a Hyundai Getz, I rarely had to let another car pass and that only uphill, where mine just wasn’t the little engine that could.  Around squealing corners the Getz held its own quite admirably. 

I stopped for food in Wye River: a Hazelnut Choc Magnum and a three packets of nuts, along with four bottles of water.  This was to be my balanced diet for the day, and I continued on toward Apollo Bay, another quiet town nestled in a sandy bay.  Summer sees the population increase, but at this time of the year the beaches are empty and the gas station attendants bored.  From Apollo Bay the road cuts inland through the Otway range and lush meadows.  At one point a sign informed me that potato and related equipment wasn’t allowed any further, but because I didn’t understand that sign, I ignored it.  Every now and again, I would catch up to a careful driver that decided to drive 75 on a 100 km/h road and groaned every time he didn’t pull over at the slow vehicle turnout (“Consider Vehicles Following,” as the signs had it).  He must have just not considered the little Getz a vehicle. 

At about three thirty, I arrived at the Gibson Steps and climbed down the walkway to the beach, giving me a good idea of the height of the cliffs lining this part of the coast.  A sign on the way down warned visitors not to swim, and just watching the tow of the waves spoke volumes as to why not.  I stayed on the sand and took pictures of the ochre cliffs and the beach before walking back up to my parked vehicle and turning back onto the road with its signs that said “Drive on the left in Australia.”  Perhaps it was a year of cycling on the left in Japan, but that part caused me no trouble during the entire trip. 

I got to the Twelve Apostles at about four o’clock.  These are giant rocks standing tall above the beach, where the water has eroded the rock around them and pushed back the remaining shoreline.  When you realize how rarely the water even reaches the cliffs, you get an idea of how long it would have taken to shape these formations and you stand in awe of the beauty and fragility of creation and wonder why big, uninhabitable rocks in a dangerous surf would cause human viewers to experience beauty.  Come to think of it, how many things have you seen in nature that you’ve deemed ugly?  (Count out your spider and snake phobias.)  What is it that makes useless and even hostile elements of nature beautiful and useful man-made things ugly? 

Because an hour or two remained until sundown I decided to drive on to the Loch Ard Gorge for a quick look and return to the Twelve Apostles later again.  I walked to the Blowhole, where I expected to see the sea water shoot up in an angry spray, but on most sides the path led a route too far from the rock edge to see down into the circular pool.  From the landward edge I could see the waves tunneling in and lashing at the sides, but that was it.  I continued on the path to another view of yellow cliffs and blue water, and from there back to the parking lot.  I only briefly walked out to the Loch Ard Gorge because I was worried about missing sundown at the Twelve Apostles. 

Loch Ard Gorge is named after the Loch Ard, a British ship that sailed for Australia in 1878 with about fifty people on board.  They had sailed for three months and first seen Australia the day before, leading to celebrations.  Fog rose that night, and the ship went off course, until the lookout saw breakers.  The captain tried to sail back out to sea, but the winds drove him back; he tried to anchor the ship down, but the anchor wouldn’t hold.  The Loch Ard ran aground, broke, and sank, taking all but two with her. 

I drove back to the Twelve Apostles parking lot and sat in the car writing postcards until I thought the sun was low enough to warrant walking out to see the sunset.  I figured it might be a bit chilly, so I wanted to take my second jacket with me.  I got my camera out from the passenger side, but when I moved the seat forward to grab my jacket I noticed the rear left tire was flat. 

I’d had a flat tire before, with Jerry, in my parents’ car, so I knew how to go about changing one.  I grabbed the utensils out of the trunk and got cranking until the tire hung a few centimeters above the ground.  When I tried to undo the nuts, all I succeeded in doing was turn the tire.  I leaned into the car and yanked the emergency brake tighter.  That just meant I couldn’t move the wrench at all.  Where’s Jerry when you need him?  I resorted to kicking the wrench, stomping it with my whole weight in the direction I thought would open the nut, until finally it moved with a shriek, and repeated that with all others.  From there on it was easy – switching the tire, kicking the wrench again to tighten the nuts, lower the car, replace everything in the trunk.  I rubbed my dirty hands, stretched my back, and looked up.  The sun had set. 

But that didn’t keep me from walking out again, delayed just a little more by washing my hands at the welcome station.  The sun had indeed set, but the sea glowed with a luminous reflection of the sky above – the blue hour.  The Apostles stood as dark silhouettes in the mist, backlit by the afterglow of sunset.  Eastward, the warm yellow of the cliffs around Gibson Steps contrasted with the soft outlines of the sea and the hard lines of its breakers.  The daytime choppy growl of the flightseeing helicopters had ceased, and only the dull roar of the sea continued unabated.  Only at the welcome center’s septic pond the frogs joined the eventide. 

I returned to the car lot, almost empty, and left for Port Campbell.  On the map it looks big and important.  In the dark it’s a three-roundabout whirlpool of windshield wiper confusion – poor signage and my unfamiliarity with the town names in the vicinity made me fall back on left-hand-drive habits.  I drove north and then east to Colac, where I stopped for my only real meal of the day at a Red Rooster. 

For the last thirty minutes I’d been listening to the Dirty Thirty on some rock station, the only station my car radio could find on automatic search.  Between Colac and Geelong I got sick of it and switched to a classical station that aired an interview about Sally Beamish’s composition for accordion and orchestra that James Crabb and was performing with the Melbourne symphony orchestra, followed by a Vaughan Williams piece for Chromatic Harmonica and orchestra.  I flipped onward after that, and got SBS during its Dutch hour.  It’s surprising how much Dutch a Swiss German speaker will understand!  At 10pm the program switched to Spanish, and I drove to the hotel listening to a eulogy to Luciano Pavarotti in Spanish, “mas grande” and all. 

I would have loved to sleep in today, but I had to get the car back.  I slept as long as permissible under the circumstances and got the car back a few minutes late, but with the queues they had I doubt they cared.  Upon their request, I left them my e-mail because of the flat tire, but so far I’ve heard nothing, and I’m assuming no news is good news in this case.  I walked back to the hotel via an opal store. 

After a shower I headed to the Southern Cross station, where I met up with Tim and his brother Pete.  We scarfed a quick lunch and then headed over to the Telstra Dome for the elimination finals game pitting Hawthorn against Adelaide.  Pete decked me out with a Hawthorn scarf.  I’d never seen an Aussie Rules Football (Footy) game before, so Tim had some explaining to do all along, but the general principle is simple.  There are four posts on either side.  Kick the ball between the middle two, and you score a goal worth six points.  Kick it at a post or between outer posts, or carry it in, or bounce it in off your hands, and you score one point. 

The game was not only an ornithological delight, pitting the Hawks against the Crows amidst a few seagulls, but two and a half hours of real excitement.  Adelaide pulled away early, and at one point held a 31-point lead over the Hawks.  The Hawks fought back and finally pulled ahead 96-90 in the final quarter, but Adelaide levelled the score again.  Hawthorn had two set pieces that resulted in only one point each to put them ahead 98-96, and the crowd, mostly Hawthorn, didn’t know whether to savor the lead or fret about the missed chances.  At the end of the next Adelaide attack, they did the latter, as the Crows hit six points for a 102-98 lead.  With only a minute or two to play, Hawthorne again got into place for a set piece, but missed again, only moving to 99.  The brown and gold fans had all but given up, when Lance Franklin got a mark with a few seconds to play and sent Hawthorne fans into a frenzy of jubilation by scoring six for a final score of 105-102.  People spilled out of the stadium in the dazed stupor of fading excitement, and to my surprise, there seemed to be no hard feelings.  Even during the game it was obvious that some friends barracked for opposing teams; after the game, some random stranger asked Tim and me how we had done against the Kangaroos.  As it was news to me that I had any beef with any kangaroos, I let Tim take care of that one. 

That’s it for today.  I’ll try to post photos – sometime. 

Oh: stay away from Coopers beer.  Not good. 

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